"Icheri Sheher"

"Icheri Sheher"

"Icheri Sheher", popularly known as "Fortress" or simply "Ancient City", is the oldest part of Baku, as well as a historical and architectural reserve. The oldest part of Baku, Icheri Sheher, is surrounded by well-preserved castle walls. More than 1,300 families live in the area of ​​the reserve.






The territory of the reserve has been inhabited since the Bronze Age. As a result of archeological researches, it was determined that during the VIII-IX centuries the territory of Icheri Sheher was densely populated, where crafts and trade developed. After the Shirvanshahs moved their residences from Shamakhi to Baku in the 15th century, a period of "crystallization" began in the life of the Old City. In 1748-1806, Baku and its center, the Old City, became the capital of the Baku Khanate. After the Russian occupation of Baku in 1806 and the oil boom (late 19th-early 20th century), the city began to develop and expand, and people began to settle outside the walls of the Old City.

Famous architectural monuments in Icheri Sheher are Maiden Tower and Shirvanshah, the pearls of Azerbaijani architecture. restaurants operate.

In 1977, Icheri Sheher was declared a historical and architectural reserve, and in 2000, together with the Maiden Tower and the Shirvanshahs Palace Complex, it was the first object to be included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.










Location
Icheri Sheher historical-architectural reserve is located in the Sabail district of Baku, on a small hill on the shores of the Caspian Sea. The reserve is surrounded by castle walls 8-10 meters high and 3.5 meters wide. Istiglaliyyat Street passes through the southeast of Icheri Sheher, Neftchilar Avenue passes through the northwest, and the metro station of the same name is located in the east. Aziz Aliyev Street passes through the east of the Old City, and Vahid Park is located in the south-west.






Ancient period
Baku is one of the cities formed around the ancient historical center surrounded by castle walls and ditches. Due to poor archaeological study, the exact history of the formation of Baku as a settlement and city is unknown. It is believed that people were attracted to the area by its natural oil and salt reserves, as well as its convenient location on the coast. During archeological excavations, it was found in the yard of the Shirvanshahs' palace. Jug of III-I centuries BC Fragments of pottery from the IV-I centuries, iron arrowheads found during archeological excavations in the territory of the Mohammad Mosque, clay figures of women of the Iron Age and pillars of antiquity allow to identify the period of formation of the Old City as a city with antiquity. B.e. In the first century, Baku already existed as a small port city






Early Middle Ages

During the rule of the Sassanid dynasty, the territory of Absheron, the center of which was Baku, was a special province of the empire within Shirvan province. After the occupation of the territory by the Arabs, the rulers of Shirvan province, which included Shamakhi, Derbent and other cities besides Baku, began to be called Shirvanshahs. Al-Balazuri, Al-Masudi, and several other Arab historians report that during the reign of Anushiravan, Khosrow summoned territorial judges and gave them titles, including Shirvan rulers called Shirvanshahs. There is only brief information about the history of Baku in the VII-X centuries. It is known that the city was attacked by Turks and Russians from the north. In 914, the Russians attacked the port of Baku. According to Masudi, the Russians came to the oil-rich territory of Baku in the territory of the Shirvanshahs. Shirvanshah Ali ibn Haysam, who did not have a navy in the Caspian Sea, was forced to send soldiers to fight on commercial and cargo ships. According to Masudi, thousands of Muslims were killed and drowned in the Russian attack. The marches to the shores of Baku and Absheron were repeated several times in the following periods.

Although Al-Muqaddas described Baku as "the only port in the region" in the 10th century, it is known that in the 8th-9th centuries Baku was not a famous seaport and was not mentioned among the country's major trade centers. Numerous coins from the Sassanid (V-VII centuries), Abbasid and Shirvanshah periods found in the city during archeological excavations tell about Baku's trade relations with other cities. Authors who lived in the late tenth century already mark the city as a popular port. Located on a low hill, the city was surrounded by castle walls. The medieval layer discovered on the south-eastern facade of the Shirvanshahs' palace dates back to the 8th century. The custom of burial in jars found in different parts of the Old City shows that the area was already inhabited before the 7th century. However, the architectural monuments of the early period of the city have not survived.








Power of Shirvanshahs

Ogtay Sadigzade - Shirvanshah I Akhsitan in the port of Baku, Azerbaijan History Museum.
In the tenth and eleventh centuries, with the gradual weakening and disintegration of the Arab Caliphate, the territories under the rule of the empire, including the rulers of Shirvan, began to rule their countries independently. At that time, the rich cities of Shamakhi and Baku were often marched by neighboring peoples. In 1030, there was a clash between the Russians, who attacked the city from the north in Baku, and the troops of Shirvanshah I Manuchohr ibn Yazid. Defeating Shirvanshah's army, the Russians advanced along the Araz River and captured Beylagan, one of the richest cities in Arra. A year later, the Russians invaded Shirvan again via Baku, but Musa ibn Fazl, the ruler of Arran from the Shaddadid dynasty, fought the Russian army and drove them out of Azerbaijan.

Taking into account the Turkic-Oghuz marches to the Caucasus in the 1840s, the Shirvanshahs began to improve the defense system to ensure the protection of cities. It was during this period that sources reported the first attacks of the Oghuz. The Seljuks, the Oghuz tribe that established a strong empire in the 11th century, began to threaten the countries of Central Asia. In 1066, the Oghuzs, led by Gara Tekin, attacked Shirvan and Baku. After Gara Tekin, the Oghuzs, led by commanders such as Shirvana Qaymas and Alp Arslan, attacked several more times. However, the Shirvanshahs were able to maintain their independence at that time. Only after the Iraqi-Ajam and the Iraqi-Arab ruler Sau-Tegi came to power did Shirvanshah Fariburz have to accept his vassal dependence on the Seljuks. In the second half of the 12th century, Atabay Shamsaddin Eldaniz conquered all of Shirvan, including Baku. Although the Shirvanshahs became independent at the end of the 12th century, they were in fact under the influence of the Eldeniz.


Engelbert Kempfer - Baku, engraving, 1683, atlas of Johann Baptist Homan
After the collapse of the city of Shamakhi as a result of a strong earthquake in 1191, Shirvanshah I moved the residence of Akhsitan to Baku. During the rule of the Shirvanshahs, a lot of construction work was carried out in Baku and the city was developed. In the 12th century, the castle walls were built and the city's defense system was strengthened. One of the buildings included in the city's defense system was the Maiden's Tower. It is known that during the struggle against the Seljuks, the Shirvanshahs formed an alliance with the kings of Georgia. According to Georgian sources, in 1222, Georgian Tsar George IV, the son of Tamar the Great, came to Baku to attend the wedding. The importance of Baku as one of the richest cities of Shirvan and the most important port city in the Caspian Sea has been growing since that time. In his poem dedicated to Akhsitan ibn Manuchohra, Shirvanshah speaks of Baku, Khagani Shirvani states that the city is an impregnable fortress and compares it with the city of Bastam surrounded by the strong fortress walls of Khorasan. [9]


Grigory Gagarin - Khan's palace in Baku, 1847
The Mongols, who occupied Sarab and Beylagan in 1220, plundered Shamakhi and left Azerbaijan through the Derbent Pass. In 1231, the second march of the Mongols took place, and after this march, large cities such as Ganja, Barda, Beylagan, Shabran could not regain their former strength for a long time. The 15th-century Azerbaijani geographer Bakuvi states that the Mongols were unable to capture Baku, which had been heavily defended for a long time, and faced resistance from the urban population. Only after the occupation of the whole country was Baku forced to surrender.

In 1258, Genghis Khan's grandson Hulagu Khan conquered Baghdad, ending the Abbasid caliphate and establishing the Hulagu dynasty. The Elkhanids, who did not recognize the Juji's rule in the South Caucasus, conquered these territories, and it was for the South Caucasus that the Elkhanids and the Red Horde state, ruled by the Juji, began wars for nearly a century. In those years, the borders between the two countries passed either near Derbent or near Baku. At that time, the Shirvanshahs ruled the country as vassals of the Mongols and took part in the Elkhanid campaigns. During the reign of the Elkhanids, Baku was a wintering ground for the Mongol rulers. In 1297, Kazan khan came to the city for the winter. Odorico Pordenone writes about Kazan khan: "The khan, who spends summer here (in Sultaniye), moves to another city called Bakux (Vasis) in winter."







After the fall of the Mongol dynasties in the early 14th century, the Shirvanshahs fought the Shepherds and Jalairis, who sought to seize the territory of the Elkhanids. A coin minted in the name of Sultan Sheikh Uways, dated 1360, found in Baku, proves that the city fell into their hands. Coins minted in the name of Tokhtamish and Amir Teymur at the end of the 14th century show that Shirvan was also subjected to their marches. Shirvanshah I Ibrahim took part in the battle against the Ottoman sultan Yildirim Bayazid on the side of Amir Teymur, accompanied him during the Syrian campaign in 1400 and entered Aleppo. After the death of Amir Teymur, Shirvan regained its independence. During the unification of the whole country under the rule of Gara Yusif, Shirvanshah accepted vassal dependence on the Garagoyunlus, but Ibrahim I effectively ruled large areas of Shirvan from Sheki to Derbent.

From the beginning of the 15th century to the beginning of the 16th century, the country was free from the marches of foreign forces, and for a hundred years Shirvan continued to exist as a fully independent state. Khalilullah I, who ruled the country from 1465, supported the Timurids who fought against the Garagoyunlus. When Khalilullah met Shahrukh in Karabakh, Shahrukh expressed his desire to be related to him and married Khalilullah to Teymur's grandson. Khalilullah I carried out large-scale construction and construction works in the cities of Shirvan, especially in Baku, which was the capital at that time. It was during his rule that the construction of the Shirvanshahs' palace complex, several caravanserais and bridges began.





Archaeological research

Arched temple discovered as a result of archeological excavations in Icheri Sheher.
Archaeological excavations in the area of ​​80 m 2 on the site of the house demolished in the northern part of Icheri Sheher (Kichik Qala Street) in 1970 revealed the remains of a residential house consisting of several XII-XIII century farm buildings and a small courtyard stone walls at a depth of 2 meters. Tandoors, stone-paved wells and a few pottery pipes were found in the yard. In the cultural layer, unglazed and glazed ceramics, fragments of pottery, flat copper pieces adorning wooden gates, blue pottery beads, and copper coin hoards cut by Shirvanshahs are found. In addition, archeological excavations were carried out in the area of ​​16x8 m on the east side of the Shirvanshahs' palace.

Along with the foundations of the walls of the rectangular building, water, household and garbage wells, tandoors, etc. were discovered. Numerous glazed and unglazed vessels and their fragments, copper and iron utensils, glass and pottery were found. Glazed ceramics found in the upper layer are dominated by polychrome pots decorated with angob and manganese. Some of the bowls have embossed seals on the bottom. Numerous millstones were found, as well as copper coins minted by the Shirvanshahs. [10]

Excavations in the area of ​​16x8 m on the eastern side of the Shirvanshahs' palace were brought to the subsoil (at a depth of about 6 m). Along with the foundations of the walls of the rectangular building, water and household wells and tandoors were discovered. Numerous ordinary and glazed dishes and their fragments were found. Glazed ceramics found in the upper layer are dominated by polychrome pots decorated with patterns, carvings and various paintings made of angob and manganese. In the lower layer of ceramics, there are many dishes with monochrome patterns. Among the dishes found are glass, bowls, plates and cups. At the bottom of the bowls, there are convex seals. Ordinary pottery consists of narrow and narrow-necked cups, pots, bowls and lamps. Many stones were found in the dirt. Copper coins, copper and iron objects, glass and faience products, etc. minted on behalf of Shirvanshah. found. [11]

Church of St. Bartholomew

At the end of the XIX century

Remains of the church discovered as a result of archeological excavations
Archaeological excavations have revealed a column base (left) and a statue (right).


In 1971, excavations began on the south-eastern slope of the Baku Heights. Excavations in the area of ​​168 m² were extended to the subsoil. The subcultural layer of about two meters belongs to the VIII-XIII centuries. Residential complexes occupy the south-eastern part of the excavation site. Farms and water wells, tandoors and pastures were discovered in the lower layer. Large quantities of ceramics, tiles, metal and glass items, copper coins were found.

Yellow clay pots with floral and geometric patterns are selected. Glazed vessels of the IX-X centuries - monochrome bowls decorated with angob and manganese and painted with green glaze were found; some are stamped by potters.

In the lower layers were found delicate red-walled, thin-walled vessels decorated with patterns. The discovery of copper, iron, bronze and glass products shows the development of metal and glass processing, jewelry and other arts in medieval Baku. The silver and copper coins found date back to the IX-X centuries and were minted on behalf of the Abbasid caliphs and Shirvanshahs. They confirm that Baku has extensive trade relations with other cities in Azerbaijan and neighboring countries. [12]

The remains of the discovered houses are on the south-eastern side of the excavation site. The lower part of the wall foundations is made of slightly carved stone, and the space is filled with cut stones. In the strata of the XI-XIII centuries, there were farms and water wells, tandirs, hearths, etc. was found. Most of the finds consisted of ceramics, tiles, metal, glass and copper coins. Clay products are represented by jars, handles, plates, bowls, lamps and various types of pots. Yellow clay convex floral and geometric patterned dishes are especially distinguished. Glazed pottery of XI-XIII centuries was polychrome and decorated with carved patterns. At the bottom of some of the glazed bowls was a potter's seal. The copper, iron, bronze and glass products found show the development of metalworking, glass-making, jewelry and other arts in medieval Baku. The discovery of copper coins belonging to the Shirvanshahs, Eldegizs and Jalairis confirms that Baku has extensive trade relations with other cities of Azerbaijan and neighboring countries.


Remains of Baba Kuhi Bakuvi Mosque
In 1973, excavations were carried out near the city walls with arched towers on the north side of the city fortress. Archaeological excavations have shown that the craft workshops of old Baku




The modern era

The minaret of the Shah Mosque damaged by artillery shells fired by Armenians during the genocide of March 31, 1918
In 1952-1957, the fortress walls of the Old City were restored. In 1977, the Old City was given the status of a historical and architectural reserve, and in 1985 it was declared a State Historical and Architectural Reserve.

On February 17, 2003, President Heydar Aliyev signed a decree "On some measures for the protection and restoration of the Icheri Sheher Historical-Architectural Reserve in Baku" [23]. After the order, the construction work was stopped here and purposeful measures were taken to protect the historical image of the city.

On February 10, 2005, President Ilham Aliyev signed a decree on the establishment of the Icheri Sheher State Historical-Architectural Reserve under the Cabinet of Ministers of the Republic of Azerbaijan. [24] According to the Presidential Decree "On Measures for the Development of the State Historical and Architectural Reserve" Icheri Sheher "of December 17, 2009 Funds were allocated for the construction, repair of residential buildings and replacement of utilities, landscaping in the area.

Issues of protection, restoration and conduct of archeological works in Icheri Sheher Historical-Architectural Reserve are also resolved in accordance with the requirements of relevant normative legal acts and international agreements of the Republic of Azerbaijan. According to the current legislation, all monuments of scientific, historical or cultural significance located in the territory of the Reserve are protected by the state, and their destruction, relocation and replacement are prohibited. Currently, the Reserve Department is engaged in the protection, research and promotion of the Old City. [25]

The Muhammad Mosque in Icheri Sheher (architect Muhammad ibn Abu Bakr) is being restored by specialists from Germany's Remmers and Austria's Atelier Erich Pummer GmbH. [26]

In February 2011, the building No. 20 on Asaf Zeynalli Street in Icheri Sheher was repaired, its foundations were strengthened, and the facade of the building was restored with the help of new technologies. The building was built in 1890. The restoration work was carried out in accordance with the "Detailed plan for the conservation of the center of Baku" of the Cabinet of Ministers of the Republic of Azerbaijan.